Things I Dislike About Japan

Well, it has certainly been a while hasn't it. Heck, this year is almost over but before we get to the positives, I figured I'd introduce a few of the things that I think aren't so great about living in the land of the rising sun. There is a general image that Japan is a wonderful place full of rich culture, technology and quirkiness - and to some degree that's correct - but every country has its flaws and as a result, I figured I'd introduce my own perspective on that.

Winter

Japan likes to think it's one of the only countries to have four seasons (insert eye roll here) but when Winter hits, it is bloody cold. England gets very cold too but at least when you step through your front door, it actually feels like you're at home. Not necessarily in Japan however. Central heating is not a thing here. When the houses are erected, they do them very quickly (that's a good thing) but they also build them out of light-weight material (I'm convinced that this to contribute to withstanding earthquakes). So when you open your front door and step inside, it literally feels like you've just stepped back outside again. And waking up in the morning feels like you've been sleeping in ice (it took me an hour to get out of bed this morning). So if you're a Summer being like me, get ready. You've probably never experienced anything like it.

Red Tape

Over here, things are very regimented. There's a system in place for everything. This isn't necessarily a bad thing as it keeps things neat, tidy and everyone knows where they stand. But I feel like a lot of it is unnecessary and things would run a lot more smoothly if Japan "trimmed the fat" a little. A lot of this red tape comes into play when moving house or trying to buy a car...etc. When I moved house, I spent a couple of hours at the estate agent having a guy run through the entire contract which included a section about being responsible for changing my own light-bulbs. A coworker of mine had to have the police verify that he had a parking space available for the new car he was buying. You need a license in order to ride a jet ski here (I rode a jet ski for five minutes in The Canary Islands free of charge, no license necessary). I understand why some of these things are done now that I live here but in some cases is it really that necessary?

Flexibility

....or lack thereof. This relates to the above. As I mentioned before, Japan is very good at putting

Photo courtesy of jpninfo.com

systems into place that everyone and anyone must follow (the rules for foreigners and natives are sometimes different however, but that's another entry). Because of this, if one tries to deviate from the norm, it's a little bit difficult for people to handle. This isn't anywhere near as apparent as within the service sector. I've heard that most restaurants, hotels...etc, have a manual which dictates how they're supposed to behave, speak and conduct business when dealing with customers. So when they have to deal with a different situation - that's not in the manual - all hell breaks loose. I once went to a cafe for some breakfast. They had a morning set in place and a selection of drinks to choose from included. I didn't want any of the drinks listed but I was prepared to pay the same price anyway. The staff insisted that I order a drink irrespective. So they gave me an iced tea which I didn't drink. What a waste.

Healthcare

In England, healthcare is free (ish) so coming to Japan which has a system similar to the United States was a bit of a blow to me (and it's not cheap either). That said, because I'm now paying for my healthcare and because it's Japan, I figured the healthcare would be much better than back home but boy, was I wrong.

The first issue is that unlike back home, there are no general practitioners out here which means that you have to find a specific type of clinic that deals with your problem so let the search begin. The good thing is that there are loads of practising consultants. The bad thing is that almost anyone with a license can be one but it doesn't necessary mean they're actually any good. Doctors are also called 先生 (sensei) or "teacher" out here so patients usually defer to them and some doctors think of themselves as superior and all-knowing when in truth, they could use some fine-tuning and bed-side manner training of their own (bedside manner doesn't really exist out here by the way).

Furthermore, doctors also have a habit of prescribing medicine that treats only the symptoms and not necessary the actual problem itself so the issue actually reoccurs and you end up having to go back. As a result, I'm convinced that the healthcare here isn't actually about helping people get better but about having them come back so that the doctors can line their pockets because you're still paying them after all. Therefore, I'd take my free, under-staffed and over-capacity NHS any day. At least I'll get better.

Fashion

Photo taken from Pinterest

A person I once knew said it perfectly. For females, Japanese fashion comes in two types - little girl or grandma. Obviously, there are sub-cultures and what not in between - visual kei, b-boy...etc - but if we're looking on a general scale at what most members of society would find acceptable, I believe female clothing fits comfortably into those two categories.

In Japan, youth and cuteness is life. The word 可愛い(kawaii) or "cute" is constantly heard throughout the year. Girls love cute things for example, key rings, bows, lace, frills...etc. So it's not uncommon for girls and young women to pander to this image. It is seen on billboards, in magazines and on television. Even ladies in their thirties want to look cute and some will even behave a certain way. When I was living in Hiroshima, I used to frequent a Starbucks and speak to one of the ladies working there. She had a very young and energetic feel to her. I was convinced she was my age (I was in my mid-twenties at the time) only to find out that she had two teenage children. Mind was blown.

On the other hand, women also dress more conservatively. They might show off their legs the younger they are but cleavage is not a thing here and I very rarely see older ladies exposing their arms in Winter or Summer. Office ladies might adopt the white shirt and two piece black suit - blazer and skirt (often knee-length). The shopping centre across from me has a whole host of old lady garments too - usually good quality but overpriced.

This is obviously an exaggeration but neither style particularly suits me. , I find it increasingly difficult to find things I like here in order to dress how I'd like. As a result, I'm pretty sure I dress more like a guy - especially when I'm at work.

Loneliness

Since coming to Japan, I have met lots of people. I've attended many events. I laughed. I exchanged details. But Japan - or at least where I am - is actually quite cold in places. I often hear non-Kanto folk (Kanto is the region I live in) describe Tokyo to be that way (not too dissimilar to London) and I have to say that it hits the nail on the head. As a foreigner living in Japan, I've experienced it myself and I've heard it said so many times. To form connections with the Japanese can be very difficult. A lot of Japanese people see foreigners as temporary because a lot of foreigners - especially teachers - come for a couple of years and then go home so all that effort forming a friendship and putting effort into someone might seem like a waste to them.

In addition, they do take a while to warm up to you. The whole 内・外 (uchi-soto) or "inside" (in-group) and "outside" (out-group) is a real thing here. The in-group being the Japanese and the out-group being everyone else. I started salsa classes 6 months ago and it's only recently that the group members have actually started to try to talk to me and include in - this is including my teacher. They can start off very formal and cold towards you which I'm presuming is just a way of sizing you up before they actually "open the doors".

At the same time however, if you make waves or have a dispute, rather than chew it out like we do back in England, they'd rather do a slow ghosting whereby they'll gradually stop hanging out with you and will stop contacting you and that is universally accepted in this country because no one likes conflict.

Someone might be very friendly and polite on the surface but may harbour deep-ridden animosity towards you on the inside and you may never know. People often don't talk about problems or issues with another. Complaining to someone can be seen as burdening them or may make you look less than favourable too in some cases. And being direct is an absolute no-no. I've heard a lot of Japanese people say that they wish they could be direct but they simply just can't. It's not a thing here.

Therefore, as people from the west who deal with issues head on, who might talk openly about ourselves from the off and who try to be more personable, it's is a completely different system out here. So forming genuine relationships or connections with people out here (more so apparent if you're here long term) might feel next to near impossible and as a result, isolation or loneliness might set in.

~

So these are a few of the things that I don't like about Japan and I'd like to stress that these are my own opinions so you should probably take them with a grain of salt. Everyone experiences Japan differently. Some people haven't a bad word to say about it while others are knee-deep in their feelings.

Such is life right?

The Japan Files ~ Mental Health

I am not an expert.

I studied psychology for three years. I had a brief stint with Childline and I counsel (I say this loosely) my friends when they're in need, but I am far from qualified to talk about this topic. Nevertheless, I have made a few observations about Japan and it's attitude towards mental health issues, and I have also come to the following conclusion:

There seems to be no real acknowledgement of mental health in this country.

I have seen countless people running around who I know have issues but they're allowed to roam the streets freely. People who shout, clap, make other strange noises, people who talk to themselves or who try to talk to other people even though it's obvious that they're not in their right mind.

Photo courtesy of  Exposing the Truth

I booked an appointment to see a psychiatrist. I filled out a form and spent no more than a couple of minutes in the room with the doctor who asked me all of two questions and immediately prescribed me medication to help me "relax". I remember thinking "that was quick; that was easy". If I was a drug addict, I'd know where to go next time. But in the UK, it's not common practise to prescribe medication to just anyone. I would assume that with the prescription of drugs would come a little bit of counselling too and there just didn't seem to be any of that.

From what I've heard, mental health, other disabilities and associated issues are often swept under the carpet. As a teacher, I've met children who have had clear behavioural problems that often go unacknowledged by the parent. None of the teachers were trained to deal with that sort of thing but we were expected to deal with it anyway, no matter how taxing or difficult it made teaching the class.

Some people don't want to acknowledge that their loved ones may be suffering with something because in Japan, mental illness is seen as a sign of weakness, or a sign of "bad blood". And no one wants to be seen as "that family" with "that kid". He's just 元気(genki) - energetic, is all. There's nothing wrong with my son. He's completely normal.

And you know, it's not dissimilar from the black community too. Things are changing, but older generations didn't like to acknowledge mental illnesses either. A case is point happened to me during university when I had a bit of a dark period. My grandmother's solution was to simply "put it out of my head". But it's never that simple is it?

It isn't to say that Japan is a complete lost cause however. I've seen some families where a member is clearly unable and the family members appear to be taking care of them. I see a lot more of them now then when I first arrived in Japan. But I don't think Japan is the kind of country that likes to talk out it's issues.

With words like 我慢 (gaman) - perseverance - and 頑張る (ganbaru) - to do one's best - people are encouraged to overcome all obstacles; large and small. But when they can't gaman or ganbaru anymore, what can they do and who do they turn to?

I've said it before, but I think Japan is a country that - while very advanced in terms of technology - it's about fifty years behind in terms of interpersonal and sociological development. I don't think I'll see a dramatic shift in my generation, but I hope Japan takes the steps towards taking better care of the psychological well-being of its inhabitants and removing the stigmas attached to mental health issues.

The Life and Times of being a Middle School Student in Japan.

I've been teaching children for over three years now, and it isn't without it's challenges, that's for sure. Whether it's made me more tolerant of children, I can't say for sure, but as I mentioned in an earlier post, Japanese children are just like any other children in the world. Some are good; some are terrible. Some are bright and some are dull. Some really like studying and some of them don't. But children in Japan - just like almost everywhere else - tend to follow the same patterns as their predecessors. They go to nursery, they attend primary school and then they start middle school (or junior high school for my audience across the Pacific). And middle school is no joke. Mess up here and it could spell doom for your future.

~

Entering Middle School

Pro: Primary school is a doddle but I get the vibe that when children become middle school students, it's really time to start buckling down. In a way, this is a positive as it starts to prepare them for the real world. Because we adults know that it's not all fun and games. We have to grow up, adapt, follow the rules and get in line. It isn't to say that we don't learn some of these rules in primary school either but I get the vibe that there's more of a sense of seriousness about middle school

Con: Say goodbye to your childhood. In my current job, it isn't uncommon for children to quit taking English lessons right before middle school. Maybe the parents consider English a little bit of fun before the real work starts; who knows? But tests increase, the workload gets harder and I feel like the freedom they might have experienced in primary school becomes considerably non-existent.

After School Clubs

Pro: The Japanese are usually quite slim. And I think one of the reasons why is because they promote lots of extra curricula activities; especially sports. In the UK, after school club happen once or twice a week for an hour at best. But in Japan, they take it very seriously. In a way, it's great for keeping kids fit or getting them to make friends with each other. It's also something to look forward to after class.

Con: Unlike the UK, after school clubs are a little bit over the top. I once taught a girl who was in the tennis club. When she arrived for my lesson, she was so tired after having trained for well over five hours; there was an up and coming tournament apparently. Some kids go to club every day. As I said, the Japanese are really particular about their extra curricula activities. But it can get to the point where they suck the fun completely out of it.

Uniforms

Middle school boys wearing gakuran

Pro: We've seen the anime. And I've seen enough kids (and adults) to know that uniformity is another thing that is taken very seriously here. You will look polished and you will represent your school well; even when you're not attending class. I actually quite like the 学ラン(gakuran) style uniform as it really does look quite smart.

Con: Like most uniforms the world over, there isn't really much chance for self expression. In school, dying your hair (a reasonable colour) or make up is not allowed. The most I've seen kids do is unbutton the blazer or wear the undershirt. If the kid plays sports, they must wear their PE kit - even on a weekend. A child represents their school everywhere. And sometimes when it's not even school related - a dance club, for example - there are uniforms for those too.

Cram School

Pro: Also known as 塾 (juku). The minute a kid is due to start middle school, the salesmen come knocking apparently. Cram school is a way in which middle schoolers keep on top of their grades. It's useful for kids who fall behind in certain subjects or for the kids that want to be at the top of their game. I benefitted from an after school "cram class" of sorts when I was in secondary school and it really bumped my grade up. In the UK, these types of schools aren't so apparent however, but in Japan, they are everywhere.

Con: On top of all the homework and after school clubs and piano lessons and English classes, juku is another thing to add to a middle schooler's long list of things to do. Unfortunately however, like all childrearing in Japan, cram school does not come cheap at all and most parents feel pressured into sending their kids to cram school out of fear or them falling behind their peers.

~

Middle schoolers can undergo some very long days in Japan. I've seen students riding their bicycles home at around 10pm at night which completely boggles the mind considering that in the UK, most kids are home well before dinnertime. I've had children arrive at my lessons completely famished - having not even eaten due to their long schedules. But in a way, it's almost indicative of what is to come because when one enters the workforce, overtime is eminent. Getting home late is eminent. Skipping a meal is on occasion eminent and it doesn't seem to be changing any time soon.

So I commend the students here. They work really hard and go through some tough times. I often hear however that once they overcome this hurdle and enter a decent high school, it gets easier after that. Even university is a piece of cake apparently but that's a entry for another time.

Call of the Wild ~ Curse of the Rebound

I think it's time to unearth this series.

...even though there were only two episodes.

Because it's that time of year, folks. Or at least, it is in Japan. In the west, Spring (and Summer) supposedly make people crazy. Birds are tweeting, mammals are humping and people start looking a lot more desirable. But in Japan, it's that time around December where it starts getting colder and everyone's looking for someone to keep them warm (or hot) on Christmas Eve (Japan's real Valentine's Day).

I'm still plodding along and dating - albeit hopelessly - around and I'm starting to see a pattern in some of the people I have spoken to. Because let's be real here. Today's dating culture is built for men. They can contact someone at the blink of a text message, can make the necessary arrangements and because sex is so readily available both online and off, there isn't really much work to be done like there was several decades ago. The courting method has changed and I'm starting to realise there are far more people on the internet more interested in getting physical as oppose to actually truly connecting, which is making my conquest fruitless.

And there is nothing more fruitless for a person looking to connect when they keep on bumping into people who seek the ominous rebound.

What is a "rebound", you may or may not ask? It's the period that happens just after you exit a relationship where some people don't know how to deal with their feelings. The break up might have been brutal or they simple forget how to be single and so they peruse the clubs, bars and of course the internet in search of someone to comfort them or replace the connection they once had. And sometimes it's planned; it's wanted; it's negotiated, but more often than not, it isn't. Said rebounder gets involved with a new person, gains some relief but ultimately, it's temporary. The rebounder realises that said new person can't really truly replace what they once had and they end up disposing of that new person. And if said new person isn't strong enough, they too might fall victim to the emotions associated with a "break up" and thus the cycle repeats itself.

I have fallen victim to this curse. Never the rebounder; always the reboundee. Thus I can often spot it a mile off. Let's take a couple of cases, shall we?

Case One: The Peurto Rican

I tried a different means of meeting new people at someone's suggestion - Craigslist (I seriously must have hit rock bottom or something). I was contacted by a Puerto Rican guy who didn't really look amazing in his pictures but we had a hellova lot in common. That was until he sent me a more recent picture of himself and I came to see that he had gained an exponential amount of weight. Call me shallow if you will, but let me finish. The distance between the pictures he initially sent and the picture of him recently was no more than a couple of months. I came to find that he had just gotten out of a relationship a couple of months prior and had decided that rather than deal with, he would eat his feelings. He assured me that he was taking back control of his life but I was pretty much assured out the window.

Case Two: Mr. "I Dunno What I Want"

Looked pretty good in his pictures but very early on told me he wasn't looking for a relationship. I shut him down immediately because I realise now that men generally say what they mean and it's a waste of my time, if we're not looking for the same thing. He persisted and asked to be friends. I declined. He persisted again and stated that most of his relationships has started on a whim and that there might be a chance. He then mentioned that he was happy being single however. I later came to find that he had actually just exited a relationship and was supposedly looking for another. I was done at that point.

Case Three: Mr. Childhood Sweetheart

I didn't actually find out about this guy's situation until I met him. He seemed nice enough and had made an effort to find places of interest to take me but as we chilled out for a bit and had an in depth conversation, I came to find that he had gotten out of a twelve-year relationship only six months prior. Now six months sounds like a long time but my alarm bells were going off because twelve years is an insane amount of time (it's a marriage for some people). We didn't actually end up meeting again. He blamed it on the language barrier but I honestly think that he needs to take at least another year off to deal with that kind of loss.

Case Four: The Aspiring Professor

I call him that because he was actually studying to become a professor. Thus he was younger than my designated age range but sometimes I stop and talk to people out of boredom and listen to their stories. (I usually have no intention of meeting them though; I know it's wicked). This one said he was looking for friends but asked a lot of relationship-esque questions. Ultimately, however, it came out that like all the others, he had just exited a three-year relationship and had joined a "dating app" to "find female friends". I assured him that he was probably better off looking for other ways to take his mind of things but what young guy is going to heed wisdom really.

I just see continuous patterns. Lots and lots of guys who want to muck around and "fill the void". Men call us women emotional but I think in their own way, they're not taught how to deal with their own emotions; their taught to keep a stiff upper lip; they taught not to discuss things openly, whereas us girls will cry and vent to our friends and let it all out.

When I became newly single, I purposely remained that way for at least a year and took back my life. It got easier every day. And I will continue to encourage people to do the same. A quick knock about the bedroom isn't going to make it all better again.

I guess I can't just blame the men because some women do it as well. They rope men into a false sense of security, lead them on and then drop them when their hook, line and sinker. But I can only look at the world from my perspective and my experience. So my advice to anyone recently out of a relationship would be to avoid the dating apps and temptations. Take back your life first and then get back out there again.

I'm sure my advice will fall on deaf ears....or....blind eyes though...

The Japan Files ~ Gateway to Sleepytown

Imagine this.

A night out on the town with your mates. You just got off work on a Friday or you're dolled up to the nines on a Saturday. The pre-drinks. The bar hopping. The club stomping. The midway beers and after "shots". And by about three o clock in the morning, although you're exceedingly happy, you are absolutely, completely trashed. But the only way you're getting home really is a taxi. And we all know that cab prices double come the early morning. So you're stuck on the street somewhere dying in your heels or freezing your bollocks off as you wait for the first train. And maybe you feel it. And maybe you don't. But not only are you drunk, you're also exhausted. So what do you do? 

Well, in England, you'd stick it out - biting cold and all; stiff upper lip. But in Japan? Well, you've certainly got a bit more variety to keep you warm after a drunk-filled evening. So allow me to introduce the many ways in which you can find yourself some sort of bed in the land of the rising sun.

~

Hotel

We have these almost anywhere. And you might have to shell out a bit of money depending on where you are -cough- Roppongi -cough- but you're definitely guaranteed a bit of luxury if you opt to stay at a hotel. Some come with kimono and slippers - potentially the Japanese equivalent to indoor wear so you can get comfortable. No need to worry about shampoo or toothpaste because in addition to towels, that's usually provided too. And what's better than actually sleeping in an actual bed? I very rarely get this luxury these days. What's better still however is that you're actually divided by walls so providing the person in the next room doesn't sound off like a foghorn, you're guaranteed a relatively peaceful and uninterrupted sleep at least until the 11am check-out.

Capsule Hotel

Brilliant if you're a man. There are some capsule hotels about that do cater to women however - (and couples apparently). Things are changing these days (even I managed to stay in one). A little bit cheaper than a typical hotel because all those little luxuries I mentioned above are pretty non-existent and you're pretty much sharing space with around thirty to fifty other people. You're allocated a locker for your belongings before making your way to the morge-style booths that are stacked next to and above each other in two storey fashion. The only real privacy you get is separated by a curtain usually. Check-out time is typically even earlier at 10am because staff need to clean in preparation for the next set of guests. But a good place to crash temporarily after a night out. Heck, you won't even notice the snoring if you've drunk enough.

Manga Cafe

Even cheaper still, the manga cafe or mangakisa is a comic book nerd's fantasy. Wall upon wall of manga, unlimited drink bar and food if you order it, and you're own personal computer-with-internet booth to enjoy it all in depending on what package you select. Some even have a shower and a ladies area for those of us who wish to be away from prying eyes. Of course, before you think about staying in one, you usually have to become a member first. Japan has a thing about loyalty after all. Then of course, there's the fact that a lot of manga cafes allow smoking and even if they have non-smoking areas, there's always going to be some crossover. The one I stayed at offered darts, billards and karaoke as extras but all I wanted to do was crash. Then there's the incessant clicking if you're a light sleeper. An 8 hour package was not enough in my opinion but if you're only going to stay until first light, then it's no problem

Karaoke Booth

I have very fond memories of singing karaoke into the night and then leaving and passing by the room next door only to see a gang of about six guys completely flaked out on the sofas. I smirked at the time but I look back now and think to myself, why not. Karaoke bars usually offer a "freetime" package during their least popular hours - usually either in the middle of the day or in this case, the early hours of the morning. This means that you can karaoke all night long usually from around 11pm to 6am all for one price. And of course, you're drunk. All night karaoke is going to seem like a viable possibility. But evidently, you will lose your voice and you will fall asleep, but at least you won't be waiting outside in the cold.

Train

Picture courtesy of jprail.com

There are so many stories about Japanese people flaking out on trains after an evening of hard liquor (or even just hard work). People so drunk that they sprawl out across three or four seats, suspend themselves from the hand rails swaying side to side, or sometimes using their fellow commuters as a pillow. But in some cases, there are actual trains that are designed to accommodate sleepers as their travel from one part of the country to the next. Creatively called "Sleeper Trains", these trains offer bedtime accommodation for the overnight traveler so as a tourist, you can travel from one part of Japan to another without actually losing a day. Of course, it doesn't come cheap and some in-carriage areas are a lot less luxurious than others. You definitely get what you pay for, but it is definitely an experience and if you're already drunk, luxury won't really matter to you. Just don't miss it obviously.

Floor

I'm starting to think that this is some sort of rite of passage for Japanese salarymen. To get so drunk that you simply end up rock bottom...literally. And I have seen it all - an old businessman completely knocked out in the middle of a train carriage. A young twenty-something rather uncomfortably conked out in a bush. A middle-aged commuter who decided that the park bench would be the safest bet. I've yet to see a foreigner end up in this predicament but I'm sure it has happened. Because come Friday or Saturday night, people just seem to wind up anywhere. And Japan is safer than most places, it really is. But even I wouldn't want to wake up in the middle of Tokyo somewhere wondering exactly what happened to me the night before.

~

So seriously folks, take note of all that opportunity. In England, it's either cab or bust for most people but in Japan, you've certainly got a lot of variety. Take advantage of it.

Mount Fuji ~ The First...and Last

It was never something that I had considered doing. It was never something I had even done before but when my friends expressed an interest in climbing Mount Fuji, I decided to jump on the bandwagon. One thing that I appreciate more then anything really are moments. I like having experiences. I want a life full of fond memories and reflection and obviously, what are moments if there aren't good folk to share them with.

There were six of us in total and we opted to climb during Obon - a national holiday in Japan that usually occurs between August 8th and August 16th. All of us had roughly the same time off work and even though we knew that the mountain would be busy, it was simply convenient. The date set, we started actively preparing two months in advance. I booked a hut as there was no way that six inexperienced hikers were going to climb 3776 metres in one day and another friend booked the bus to the mountain. We exchanged lots of information about what to buy, what to wear and precautions to take against the ever problematic altitude sickness. I also spoke to people who had climbed it already to gain their experiences but ultimately, the day finally arrived and we set off.

My travel utilities (thanks to some input from a good friend of mine) consisted of the following items:

1 pair of hiking boots

2 pairs of socks (1 woolen)

1 pair of thermal leggings

1 pair of water-wicking tracksuit bottoms

1 short-sleeved water-wicking top

2 long-sleeved water-wicking tops

1 fleece

1 rain suit (jacket and trousers)

1 balaclava

1 wool hat

1 waterproof hat

1 pair of hiking gloves

1 head light

2 bottles of 500ml water and 1 flask of water

1 bag of assorted snacks and sweets (calorie mate was my savour)

1 camera

1 pair of sunglasses

1 can of oxygen

1 half roll of toilet paper (just in case)

1 coin wallet (containing 5000 yens worth of 100 yen coins - for toilets/stamps)

3 small towels + 1 bathroom handkerchief 

2 packs of wet wipes

1 pack of paracetamol  

1 bag (to fit it all in)

1 waterproof bag cover

my actual purse with additional cash

my iPhone

my charger

Setting out, it was obviously humid so I wore the leggings and the short-sleeved top, my non-woolen socks and hiking boots. Our bus was scheduled to arrive at Shinjuku Bus Terminal for 7.40am so we decided to meet at 7.00am. Me and a friend arrived early so we went to the Starbucks nearby to fuel. The others started arriving shortly after but unfortunately one of our group, due to unforeseen circumstances, ended up missing the bus so we journeyed to Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station with just us five.

As expected the 5th Station was full of people. Lots of tour groups preparing for the climb and tourists who were not. We ate again and waited for our sixth member to arrive via other means. In that time, we bought hiking sticks to get stamped as we reached every station up the mountain and people watched as tour groups stretched and built morale for the hike. We probably started to ascend around 1pm which was probably a little late but such is life. One of our group had acquired a map and information regarding the hike. Unbeknownst to me until then, our hut was the last one before the summit so we had quite a way to go. 

Picture courtesy of a good friend.
Even kids were at this thing.

Getting to the 6th station was easy but overall we stopped frequently to rest, drink water, snack a little and recharge. As we ascended, the terrain began to change and became much more rocky as oppose to the smooth we had started out with. As an independent group, I think we angered a few of the tour groups a long the way but we often managed to pass them because their pace was obviously much slower - and smarter I might add. We snapped pictures when there was opportunity, admired the view when we could see it and the took in the clouds mixed with blue sky.

I pretty much stayed in the same attire until half way between the 7th and 8th station. I put on one of the long sleeved tops, gloves and wrapped one of the towels around my neck. It was here that we had also been instructed to slow down because altitude sickness was more likely. Our group also got divided. Myself and a friend headed up and the four remaining stuck together at a slower rate. At this point, our rest stopping became shorter, the skies got darker and the temperature dropped. Out came the balaclava, the fleece and the head light.

We reached the hut at around 7.40pm meaning that we had made the ascent in around 6 hours and 40 minutes. Despite snacking, I was starving for something hot but with only two of our group present, it made checking in difficult. It was at this point that I whipped my phone out for the first time in a while and noted a message stating that one of our group had succumbed to altitude sickness. I suggested that he stay at the closest hut and descend in the morning. The hut staff were also kind enough to reduce the cancellation fee from 100% to 50% so I was grateful. 

The rest of our group arrived over an hour later, we rejoiced and sat down to eat together but sadly altitude sickness took hold of another person in our group. Both a combination of concern and discomfort - the huts beds are all very close together and have probably been used over a thousand times - meant that I virtually got no sleep that night. I decided to stop trying around 1pm which was also the time that people started to surface and prepare to move out for the sunrise.

Our group held a mini meeting in regards to the sick and it was decided to those who were able, would hike the summit and then we would come back down and collect the sick as we went. It was at this point that I was starting to question my own condition as every time I stood up, I felt light-headed and I was also feeling breathless (both symptoms of altitude sickness). I decided to hang back a while and sit outside the sleeping quarters for a moment while my three other friends went ahead. I figured that over 100 people sleeping together breathing in the limited oxygen at 3450 metres in a closed space was probably more detrimental to me then good. So I ordered some hot cocoa, drank it, felt a bit better and decided to chance the hike to the summit.

Because I was still concerned about myself, I fell into step behind a man and his wife. I call him my anchor. His pace was perfect for me because he would move a little and then stop a little and so on. As a result, I took no long breaks and managed to catch up to my friends. It was freezing and the wind was blowing at this point but I had adorned my raincoat, my tracksuit bottoms, woolen socks and hat to combat it. There were thousands of little head lights lighting up the mountain which was pretty cool, and tour spokesmen and others motivating people for the ascent. Our group of four became two again as I maintained my step behind the anchor. Evidently, the twin lions that signal the summit fell into view and we reached the top of the mountain at around 4.20am. One can of corn soup later, we found a seat and watched the sunrise come up. People cheered and snapped pictures. I remember trying to take a selfie and my face being so cold that I couldn't even smile properly. 

The Sunrise

We reunited with the other two who made it as well, stamped our sticks, fought some Chinese tourists to take a picture next to the summit stone and began the descent. Silly me however thought that in order to reach our hut again we'd have to climb back the way we'd came because the descending route veered off somewhere else. This was not the case apparently. Nevertheless, we returned to our hut and retrieved our first friend who was feeling much better thankfully. We crossed over to the descending trail which was extremely slippery and retrieved our second sick friend along the way. So six friends finally reunited, we made our descent.

As with the ascent however, our group split again, clothes started coming off to compensate the change in temperature and less pictures were taken as fatique started to set in. There was a fear that we wouldn't make the bus in time (it was scheduled to leave at 12pm) but all six of us arrived at the bottom of the mountain. We ate again and hopped on the bus back to Shinjuku (which warranted a rather lovely 2 hour nap).

My overall opinion of climbing Mount Fuji is neutral. I hadn't trained fully for it and probably could have done a bit more research. I reckon we probably should have booked a hut that was lower down as that might have impacted better on those who contracted altitude sickness. I also think that popping the headache medicine was very helpful even though I didn't actually use my own. Although there are toilets on Mount Fuji, they are for the most part very disgusting as they don't function like normal toilets, they smell something rotten and some don't actually have tissue in them (the foam action toilets at the 5th station however were very interesting). It was lovely to hear all the different languages on the mountain as people from all over the world had come to conquer it. Peering down at the world when the clouds weren't obscuring it was also pretty cool. Being at the summit for the sunrise rise was freezing despite the four layers I was wearing. My gloves also did nothing to stop my fingers from getting frost bites, so I would advise anyone to buy gloves that are both functional and thermal.

I probably bought more stuff then I needed. I came back with lots of snacks and even half a bottle of water. I didn't wear all the clothing and it didn't rain but having the rain gear is still very useful. I borrowed sun screen from friends just in case but I've never really had sunburn before. I never used the camera - I ended up using my iPhone instead. Of all of us, my phone was one of the only ones that stayed on during the entire journey; I thank my lucky stars that I bought that charger. I barely used the oxygen can but I did give it to others use. I also came back with over 2000 yens worth of coins. I suspect however that even though I came back with all that stuff; it's much better to over-prepared then under.

I'm sure others have more positive experiences of Mount Fuji and I'm not saying mine wasn't positive, but there were difficulties and such that I had to acknowledge. So to anyone thinking about Mount Fuji - I would definitely say do it if you have the desire or the will-power. You don't have to be fit but you do have to know yourself and take things at your own pace. Over-research if you can. Know that Mount Fuji is expensive - both the mountain itself and the preparation that goes with it. You must also take your rubbish with you as there is nowhere to throw away anything on the mountain.

I'll say it again. I had no initial intentions nor any interest in climbing Mount Fuji when I came to Japan but I'm glad I did.

I'll have this memory - warts and all - forever.

JLPT - The First

Today marks another first for me, folks. It's the day I took my very first test since arriving in Japan. And not just any test, but the Japanese Language Proficiency Test (JLPT) - potentially the most well-known Japanese language test ever. Since moving to Odawara and starting with a new company, the necessity for Japanese has increased but I know myself and I know that when it comes to study, I lack severe discipline. So I decided that in order to force myself into action, I was going put money on it. So back in April, I paid the ￥5,500 and booked myself in for this test. I opted for the lowest level - N5 - as I knew deep down that even attempting the N4 would certainly result in failure.

My test was scheduled for 12.30pm so I woke up around 8.30am. As rainy season is still way in effect, I had the pleasure of riding to my local station in the rain, picking up some goodies from a convenience store and "train"ing my way to my test location. I arrived at around 11.30pm to a mass of foreigners from all over the world. It was unreal hearing so many different language outside of English and Japanese but I suppose I couldn't be too surprised. Kanagawa possesses one of the highest concentrations of foreigners in Japan so clearly I wasn't going to be walking in there alone. I even managed to encounter some familiar faces as I followed the stream of language learning hopefuls onto a university campus.

As soon as 12 o clock struck, we were urged to head to our designated buildings. I recall that in front of mine, there only seemed to be one guy who was directing people to line up dependent on which floor they would be taking their test. I remember thinking that the whole thing was poorly organised. If they had signposted everything accordingly and asked first, second and third floor candidates to line-up in designated areas, I'm sure said man would not have been as overwhelmed as he was. There must have been a least a thousand odd people there that day and this test occurs twice a year. Surely they should have had a better system than that.

With that said, I finally did make it into the building and I managed to locate my room. A small lecture room's worth of people were taking the test with me and I was suddenly reminded of university tests of old. I had two invigilators - a man and a woman. The woman would continuously state the rules and regulations. I know that the Japanese tend to be rather thorough; I know why they need to be thorough but I honestly thought that by the tenth time she had reinstated the rules and regulations, it was a little bit much. That said though, initially, a lot of us didn't understand certain things. For example, it was unclear that we were to put our phones in the envelope provided and the girl sitting next to me didn't even know the meaning of the word "romaji". It made me think that this level was just right for me as we were all making mistakes.

What particularly unnerved me however was that the room had no clock. Now, on my test voucher, it had actually specified to bring a watch of some sort but my brain was thinking that it was optional. So when I walked in and saw blank walls, my heart sank. This would be my first time taking a test without any sense of time. So a warning to those taking the JLPT in Japan - if the test voucher says to bring a watch - bring a watch.

The first test was vocabulary. We had twenty-five minutes. As I had no clock, I had promised myself that I would rip through it. And I dd. I'm pretty sure I finished it in about fifteen minutes. I took some time to go over my answers for potentially another five. And I still had a few minutes towards the end to stare off into space. There were four sections in total and for the first two sections, I didn't feel it necessary to read the full sentences of each problem. It literally was identifying kanji and meaning. The third section required inserting the correct word and the last section required identifying sentences with similar meaning to the original. I felt extremely confident with that one so it was a great start.

Insert a thirty minute break, plus more invigilator jargon and we'd started the grammar test. We had fifty-minutes for this one. This one was not as easy as the last. I distinctly recall skipping two questions in favour of getting to the end before going back to those problems and trying to work them out. The first section of this test was particles - one of my biggest weaknesses where grammar is concerned. The next sentence required knowledge of sentence structure. The third section was another "insert-the-correct-word" while the last one required problem solving. I then proceeded to check my answers and about halfway through this, the invigilator called time and I recall thinking to myself that it had to be the quickest fifty minutes I'd ever experienced. Note to self; bring a watch.

A sandwich and a melon pan later, I was back into that test room for the final time to take the dreaded listening test. Of everything I have ever done with regards to Japanese, listening and speaking are by far my weakest areas. When it comes to listening, I nearly always miss something but on the second try, I tend to pick it up. Unfortunately for me, there would not be a second chance to hear the CD player. I was just going to have to try my best. So I turned my ear to the CD player and gave it a go. I'm very sure I mucked up a couple of questions on the first three sections but I feel fairly okay about the last one. In this particular test, each section usually has a bunch of pictures or a choice of four answers but in the last section, there are no pictures and you simply have to listen to the CD for both question and answers. I'm sure I cocked up somewhere but I've managed to get it all back to front somehow.

That said, as we were leaving the room, I have to say that I felt pretty neutral about the whole thing overall which is how I've always liked to feel after an exam. I never like to feel too over-confident lest my test results show me something dyer, and I never like to feel horrified lest I worry myself stupid. It was an interesting experience however and I'm grateful I did it. My test results will surface in September so I've got that to look forward to, and providing I pass, I will be looking at taking the N4 this time next year. I could take it in December if I wanted to, but I'd rather be better safe, then sorry.

The Japan Files ~ Question Time

It's very common that when you meet someone for the first time, there's always gonna be that general exchange of questions that people ask each other to get some perspective on the people they're talking to. As humans, we are social. We need conversation and common ground to form relationships or get to know each other. But whenever I meet a Japanese person for the first time, it isn't uncommon to come across the same pattern of questions every time, to the point where I can almost literally predict what is going to come out of their mouths. And it doesn't matter the age or gender. Because it seems that the vast majority of Japanese people tend to blend together as is the culture really. Though there are those that stray from the norm, Japan is an extremely conservative society where it's important to fit in. Differences, while apparent, are sometimes hard to come by. So allow me to introduce to you, my pattern of five; the questions that I have received the most since my arrival in Japan.

Where are you from?

Potentially, the most - if not the most common question that any Japanese person will ask upon meeting a foreigner for the first time. Foreigners are hard to come by. We make up less than 2% of the population and the majority of that two percent happens to come from neighbouring countries like South Korea or China. It is physically impossible to know where someone is from based on their appearance alone although it's a very typical thing to make assumptions. As a result, there seems to be a continuous interest in foreigner origins. But sadly, this question is a little bit too common for my taste so I've actually resorted to making people guess where I'm from to entertain myself. And I've had it all. People have assumed I'm American, African, Brazilian or Canadian. (I even had Indian once but I'm wondering if that person was serious). It seems that it's difficult for people to comprehend that a person that looks like me could be from a country like England. So I feel quite proud of myself when I open someone's eyes to the possibility for the first time.

How long have you been in Japan?

Recently, I've been getting this one a lot. I guess it's kind of a given though. I am not Japanese and as a result, the length of time I've been here is bound to be shorter than any Japanese person who was born and raised here. Maybe it's a way of gaging whether I'm a newbie or veteran. After all, newbies are expected to know virtually nothing about Japan. And veterans? Well, they're expected to know virtually nothing about Japan too. I usually get asked this one a lot at work so maybe it's a way of checking out my level of experience. But that says nothing really; for all they know, I could have taught English back in England as well.  If I'm honest, I'm not 100% sure about this. It could be actually be a foreshadowing of the next question...

How long will you stay in Japan?

To a lot of the locals, foreigners have an expiration date. And while various foreigners stay for long periods of time or make a life for themselves in Japan, there are a great many still who put a time stamp on their time here. Some decide to stay for a year and then head home, while others can only stay for a year due to visa restraints. Others stay for extended periods of time and then evidently decide to go home when they feel the time is right, while others just never leave. That said, because the locals are used to seeing foreigners come and go, it is often expected that we aren't in it for the long haul. That said, whenever I get asked this question, the response is always a shrug of the shoulders. I know it won't be forever but I really don't know how long I'm gonna be here. As it happens though, I quite like my life in Japan right now; I've always mentioned that it feels easy to live here; even without a firm grasp on the language. This brings me to the next question...

Can you speak Japanese?

I've always believed that it's important for people to speak the language of the country they are in. And I'm sure English speakers galore would agree that they expect people to speak English if they're going to be living in English speaking nations. But not all nations seem to agree with this notion. In Japan, it isn't uncommon for even the oldest fogey to know a little bit of English. But they still want to know whether you can communicate in the language and personally I don't see anything wrong with this question as it's usually assumed that foreigners cannot speak Japanese at all. But the more I'm asked this question, I'm starting to wonder if the answer to this question from the expectant Japanese perspective is only either "yes" or "no". I usually say "a little" because I do know a little but I'm starting to wonder if "a little" more of less translates into "no".

Why did you come to Japan?

A friend of mine once asked me why I was learning Japanese because Japanese is a language only spoken - for the most part - in Japan and can't really be used anywhere else. Therefore, it has made me consider that the reason people ask this question is a way of downplaying Japan. After all, modesty is extremely prevalent here.. But at the same time, I'm starting to wonder if people think I'm crazy for coming here. There seems to be a divine interest in all things non-Japanese. Or whether it's a way for people to hear others say good things about Japan. After all, the vast majority of foreigners came here or their own free will. They wouldn't have come here if they didn't like it. That said, my answer to this question is simple. I took an interest in Japan and the rest is history. In the same way that the kids are all obsessed with American musicians and K-pop idols, I chose Japan. This reason, and the fact that I wanted to teach.

~

Now all of these are perfectly acceptable questions. I suspect it wouldn't be uncommon to hear them had I chose to move to another country instead but the sheer frequency at which I have encountered these questions has lead me to do just that...question these questions. And what I've noted is that all of them have at least one thing in common. They continually reaffirm my status as a foreigner in Japan. Where are your from? Somewhere else. How long have you been in Japan? Not long. How long will you stay in Japan? Not forever. Can you speak Japanese? Not well. Why did you come to Japan? State your purpose. I believe it's been spoken about in other blogs - this notion of uchi-soto or "us versus them" but for a country that's keen to break down international barriers, I'm starting to wonder if they're going about it the right way.

Now where I'm from, when meeting someone for the first time, one of the first questions that generally pops up is "what's your name?". Since I've been here, I often ask this and find myself having to introduce myself without having received an enquiry in return. Further down the line, it's not uncommon to ask about someone's interests but (in reference to my earlier entry), this seems to rarely come about unless I've introduced the topic myself. 

Now perhaps its a clash of culture. Maybe it's uncommon here to pry too deeply into a stranger's state of affairs, especially if the subject is particularly controversial. But I don't understand how the question "How long will you stay in Japan?" takes precedence over "What do you do in your free time?". As I sit here evaluating it, the former question seems a little bit "cold". It's a surface question that seems to bare no interest in me as the individual. But again, Japan is not a country where people disclose their opinions freely and openly so it does not surprise me that the questions that I receive as a foreign seem to be more of the same.

I do wish they would change it up a bit however, but I guess I can't expect miracles in a country that is so very uniform. So foreigners with no clue about Japan - and even those with a clue - brace yourself.

It will get old.

Fast.