The Japan Files ~ Kid Edition

Look at them.

Adorable aren’t they?

Bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, children are full of life. They make you laugh; they make you cry; they make you grin from ear to ear with their incredible antics, and we as the adults just can’t help cooing at them. And Japanese children are no different. Some of them are adorable; shy little critters that make your heart melt. And some of them are genki grapplers, full of energy and bursting at the seams. But there are certain things about children over here that I’ve noticed that are a little bit worrisome. And even though my Japanese is still below par, I’ve started to pick up on things that once again, make me raise my eyebrows.

It’s been noted over many years that children seem to have an uncanny obsession with genitalia here. They feel quite comfortable talking about it and making jokes about it while their adult counterparts completely shy away from it (unless they’re half cut, of course). I’ve heard a three-year-old girl giggling about “cold boobs” and six to seven-year-olds having a “penis” discussion. They chortle about toilet habits and have no concept of inappropriateness. And to be honest, the lack of understanding – of knowing what’s right and wrong - is common in children all over the world but what I don’t understand is why they talk about this particular topic so freely here. After all, the Japanese are considered a conservative people, are they not?

And these antics don’t just stop at talking, but continue onto exploring it as well. You see, foreign teachers here tend to be larger in stature, which means that in some cases, our assets are also much larger. But it isn’t uncommon for children here to reach for said assets and give it a quick poke, or for some of the more confident children, a well pronounced punch in the goolies.

Children – 1, Teacher – down!

What’s more is the childhood phenomenon known as “koncho”, whereby children put their two index fingers together in an attempt to shock each other – or adults too – but prodding one forcibly in the anus. To them, it’s harmless fun, but to people like me, it’s a giant question mark. I mean, who does that really? Why would anybody want to voluntarily stick their fingers into someone else’s ass?

I’ve had a five-year-old boy attempt to flash me. Please note that not only was there a co-teacher in the room but also, his father was present – so why he felt comfortable enough to do that was way beyond me. I’ve also had a six-year-old mimic pinching nipples which was not only in front of his older brother but in front of a selection of parents coming to pick up their children as well. Young children here seem highly sexualised – whether they’re aware or not – and I’m really not sure where they’re getting it from.

Heck, when I was six-years-old, I found it embarrassing to say the word “kiss”. I didn’t know about the birds and the bees until I was eight, but I knew that discussing certain topics or making certain gestures was highly inappropriate (if I knew them at all).

But maybe it’s because of the customs here. As I mentioned in a previous entry, porn is readily available here. It’s even accessible at your local convenience store at eye-level of an unsuspecting child. What’s more is that cartoons are slightly more grown-up here – or generally what we in the west would consider to be. Twelve-year-olds can watch fairly-realistic cartoon violence, while four-year-olds can tune into cartoons like Crayon Shin Chan who I’ve been told, has been noted to pretend he’s a gay cross-dresser.

Note: I didn’t even know what a cross-dresser was until pre-adolescence.

Culturally, there are also a couple of annual penis festivals that take place. These are often a celebration of fertility but I suspect that if a child saw a giant phallus walking around, he might somehow interpret it to be okay to whip out his private parts…

As a result, I often have children attempt to get a rise out of me by screaming out rude words. Whether they’re simply doing it because of my lack of Japanese, or whether they’re doing it just because is beyond me. But as a child, if I ever did say a rude word, it was never in the presence of an adult.

What I’ve also noticed however is how the reverse seems to happen between our two cultures. Because children will freely discuss these things here but as they age, it becomes more taboo and for some people into adulthood, sex and the like becomes almost embarrassing to talk about. It’s something considered private despite its relatively easy access. But in the west, we started out relative innocent. And then we went to school, learnt secrets from our friends, had special lessons at school and now into adulthood, we can freely talk about it with no qualms whatsoever.

Even now, in the west, there’s debate on the sexualisation of children. We may not put our porn on the bottom shelf, but subliminally, sex is everywhere and it’s caused quite a stir. But it’s because we acknowledge it as a problem, that people are working towards trying to keep children innocent (granted, on the playground, it’s a little difficult). But in Japan, this discussion does not exist. And if there is a concern about children and sex, they’re keeping tight-lipped about it.

So it’s an interesting contrast between our two cultures. A little food for thought. Is it really just the media influencing kids? And is it really influence, when eventually, it’s something they will grow out of? Is this level of intrigue just kids being kids and not knowing where to draw the line? Or is there something else we’re missing completely? 

Sense and Sensibility ~ Making "Sense" of Japan: Summer Edition

So despite the heat we’ve been getting recently, it’s actually not quite summer here yet so that makes the title a little redundant. But coming from England where “real heat” only surfaces maybe around 25% or so of the year, I can happily say that I am indeed getting my “summer fix”.  That said however, with the emergence of the sun have come a whole new host of question marks that me, as the curious outsider, raise my eyebrows. After all, if you recall, I wrote this entry last year. I was the fresh-faced foreigner cocking my head to one side in confusion trying to piece together the differences between the status quo of my life in the UK and the habits or what have you of those around me in my life here in Japan. And even though I’ve passed the halfway mark, I still tilt my head and wonder to myself “how do they do?”

I mean it’s hot! And I love it. I like the fact that I can walk down the street in the daytime wearing just a t-shirt and I like the fact that I can walk home at night when it’s cooled down a bit wearing just a t-shirt. And sometimes I see the men adopting the same manner but the women simply confuse me. For you see, it is extremely common for me to see women wearing long-sleeved tops and jeans down to their shoes. In one extreme scenario, I once saw a woman wearing a scarf. I double-took because I couldn’t understand how the heat had not gotten to her. Now I know that the Japanese have a thing about modesty here; women do no wear low-cut tops, but once again they’re happy to show off their legs – and sometimes I do mean a lot of leg – whether their encased in tights or not. So for me, it does not compute. That said I once tried to conform to the standard actually and ended up passing out on a train so since then, I’ve decided that I will be exposing my arms for my own personal state if being, whether it fits in with society or not. As for Japanese woman…I solute your tolerance; I really do.

Still on the topic of women in the sun however, it is also very common to see women walking with umbrellas (I guess they’re really parasols) here…in pretty temperate weather. I already knew this would be an occurrence but for someone like me who adores the rays from the sun on her skin, it still seems a bit odd to me. This is because I equate an umbrella with rain and sometimes we do get a barrage of rain that cools us down after a heat wave, but I’ve never seen this kind of custom before and it leads me to wonder if they’re protecting themselves from UV rays, if the idea of tanning is really that taboo or whether its something else entirely. And while the day is pleasant, doesn’t it become annoying having to carry that extra item around with you? It just seems like an inconvenience. I’d rather bask in the day.

As an extension of the above nonetheless, in their apparent desperation to shield themselves from the sun, there seems to be an inconsistency. Now, I’m not sure if this is relevant to nowadays, but I’ve heard through the grapevine that most people don’t really wear sunglasses here. I’ve actually heard a plethora of reasons but the one that stood out to me the most was the one that detailed that Japanese people associate sunglasses with suspicious behaviour. After all, dark glasses hide your eyes and therefore hide your identity – funny how that works – and so you must be up to something screwy if you’re hiding behind a mask. But what doesn’t quite add up to me is that while sunglasses may not be acceptable, it’s perfectly fine to walk around wearing this:

W...T...F indeed

This is a visor. It’s basically the equivalent to this…only big enough to obscure your entire face. I double-took when I saw this for the first time because like the surgical mask in the dark, it looked a little frightening from a distance. In fact, it looks even more suspicious than a pair of sunglasses considering that, you know, it actually truly masks your identity.

Now this last one isn’t really a summer issue; it’s an all-year-round phenomena and it’s common place here in Japan if your face doesn’t fit the status quo. So as most of you are aware, all manner of foreigner or people who don’t quite look fully Japanese are stared at. As I’ve been here for a while, I’ve started to notice it less but if I cross into new territory for the first time, then all eyes are generally on me. Sometimes it can be annoying and on other occasions I don’t really care. I mean heck, if a three-eyed alien with green tentacles walked past, I’d probably stare too. What gets me however is that in Japan – like most places – it’s actually rude to stare. Now if something’s out of the ordinary, I’m gonna wonder about it as well so I understand really, but some people here are quite blatant with it. Their heads will crane a full seventy degrees as I walk past and on one occasion, a man spent the better part of 15 minutes just looking at me...and only me. I would move and so would his head. I would sit down and his head would peak over the banister just to look. Creepiest thing ever. So my gripe is, for a country that prides itself on its levels of politeness; where it tries to accommodate tourists by using English or asking if they’d prefer a fork instead, why can’t this be extended to staring? Where I’m from, if I’m looking at someone, I try not to make it obvious; I implement the “steal a glance” method so the individual isn’t aware that I’m looking. In Japan, however, this is often entirely lost complete with pointing, nudging and general astonishment.

So there you have it. I'm sure there are perfectly logical explanations for the above and as I've said before, I can only deal with it. After all, I'm not in Kansas anymore. But believe me when I say it's hot. And when I finally decide to head to a beach next week (I'm heading to Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture), it'll certainly be interesting to see how the Japanese behave in a location that I generally associate with sunbathing, swimming and partial nudity.

J-Hoppers ~ The Hostel Experience

For many years, I’d always equated staying in a hostel to staying in a cheap, shoddy little establishment with complete and usually unwashed strangers, who would move between other hostels on their cross country adventures. And don’t get me wrong, moving on from place to place and creating memories through actual experience is great. Travelling across the globe and getting a glimpse of other cultures is something that I’d relish doing if ever given the opportunity, but I’d always considered that I’d take my rest in a hotel somewhere. Hotels are safer, usually cleaner – I don’t have to share my bathroom facilities with anyone - and I certainly don’t have to worry about cooking for myself when I’ve got a breakfast buffet or dinner circuit waiting for me on the ground floor – all inclusive.

But now that I’ve actually joined the work force – albeit in another country – and I’m paying for bills and taxes off my own back – as much as I want to see as much of this country as possible, I’m well aware that my pocket can only stretch so far. What’s more, hotels are bloody expensive because you’re not just paying for a place to sleep but your also paying for the service that comes with it...plus tax most probably. So I started to look at other options for a short getaway. I looked into capsule hotels again but even they can get a bit pricey so I finally bit the bullet and sought out a hostel.

Now J-Hoppers wasn’t the first hostel I stayed in. I actually had my first experience in a hostel in Beppu, Oita called Khaosan. They have a few branches across the country and while the room was adequate and the bed was the most comfortable thing I’ve ever slept on, the shower was disappointing (and ice cold I might add) and it really was only a bed I slept in. So I’ve decided to review my second hostel experience instead considering that I spent my vacation period staying at two separate branches.

J-Hoppers Kyoto

Like Khaosan, J-Hoppers has branches across Japan. Myself and a friend stayed in their Kyoto and Osaka branches. I think the Kyoto branch is a little bit older but staff were really friendly and informative when I had questions and the location was near Kyoto station which was ideal for sightseeing. For the first couple of nights, I stayed in a Female Dorm. There were three bunk beds – each a decent size – with curtains for privacy. I spoke briefly to another girl staying there but for the most part, everyone in my dorm was really quiet, considerate and pretty much kept to themselves.  Contrary to this however, if I saw someone in the hallway I would try to say hello. There were pictures all over the walls of past guests and it made me realise that hostel culture has a real community spirit. I would see perfect strangers gather in the communal areas for a meet and greet, or just hanging out watching television. What’s more, the shower was hot this time and there was a separate toilet on nearly every floor. I was worried about potential queues for the showers but this was never an issue and I often just walked right in.

I stayed in a private dorm during my time in Osaka however and felt that this branch was either newer or more modernised. The showers here were awesome and generally clean; the toilet too. Staff were once again friendly and I spoke briefly to a guy about Kyoto. The sense of community seemed much stronger at this branch however as the hostel often ran events whether they involved drinking at an izakaya or sightseeing at a museum. Recommendations for places to eat were hung on a noticeboard as was a map containing any and all nearby stations, noteable locations and the cost of the ride to get there. The Kyoto branch had its recommendations as well but I felt the Osaka branch possessed more information – I was even able to find folders containing information about popular tourist hot spots which I had a flick through at one point.

J-Hoppers Osaka

Both branches contained wifi and onsite PCs. Both had kitchens, utensils and laundry facilities. In actuality, it was fundamentally the equivalent of a university dorm or giant house. The great unwashed weren’t unwashed at all. They were all just regular people seeking cheaper options of travelling as was I.

The downside I found however was the noise. You can’t control what other people do and even though my roommates were quiet in Kyoto, other guests weren’t always so. Even in Osaka, we encountered a couple of Spanish speakers who couldn’t quite turn down the volume of their voices as well as some drunken stragglers who’d rolled in at around 5am in the morning after a night out. One particular morning, I had the unpleasant experience of finding a few very long black hairs trapped in the shower drain. I found a couple of strands of the same hair on the floor of the toilet not too long after followed by residue of toothpaste stuck to the sink bowl. Some folk just aren’t house-trained unfortunately.

Despite this however, my experience with J Hoppers was overall quite positive. The price was fair; both locations had good transport links and there were restaurants and convenience stores within walking distance. I would certainly look at using them again in future and it’s certainly altered my perspective on hostels a little. I’m just unsure as to whether I would opt to spend a night in a mixed dormitory (with men) as that’s something I’m not comfortable with. What’s more – this was in Japan. I’ve seen the inside of a hostel in the UK before and I have to say that I wasn’t impressed at all.

As for J-Hoppers, I’d give it 3 and a half out of 5 stars.

P.S Don't make the same mistake I did and mistake the owner of J-Hoppers Osaka for some weird old guy. I felt quite embarrassed when I realised that the only reason why he was waving at us was because he'd recognised us from the hostel.

To Do List ~ The Update

So, in a couple of weeks, I'm about to experience my six month anniversary since touching down in this country that I currently call home. I can't believe I'm nearly at the halfway mark already; it seems like only yesterday that I was attempting to navigate my way around and get used to the customs and what have you. And to be honest, I'm still getting used to it. There's a new experience to be had or means to get accustomed to at every corner. I haven't even braved the hospital visit yet (and I'm hoping I'll never have to) but with every encounter, I learn something new and adding it to my arsenal of life experience is quite encouraging. 

And speaking of experiences, I recall making a sort of Bucket List depicting exactly what I wanted to do when I got here. I actually didn’t expect to get through it as quickly, granted my list was hardly difficult now that I think about it. Many an opportunity presented itself and while I haven’t fully completed it (I've yet to visit a Tokyo or go to a theme) – and then there’s the fact that there are more things I wish to do – I figured an update was necessary. So allow me to check off the items of my list, which I will write in the order that I managed to complete them in.

~

Locate a Love Hotel.

I hadn’t even been in the country three hours and low and behold I came across this little shindig. Granted, it wasn’t me that spotted it but it was within walking distance from where I was staying at the time and since then I’ve been able to spot Love Hotels a lot more easily. Seriously, they are discreet. In front of a regular hotel, you’ll find people heading in and out; you might even come across a doorman; lights are bright and the décor invites you in. At a Love Hotel, I have never seen anyone enter or exit one before. There is nearly always some sort of curtain shielding a great portion of the entrance and sometimes there’s something almost elegant and non-descript about it. I doubt I’ll ever see inside one but can’t say I’m not curious.

Eat Japanese food…and Japan

During my first week in Japan, I took the opportunity to visit a few restaurants. The restaurant that stands out to me most was this traditional Japanese restaurant in Nagoya. There was no English menu but I managed to ask the waitress what she would recommend. She suggested that I have this little concoction called 鳥そばろ丼 (torisobarodon) and it still stands as the best meal I’ve had in Nagoya to this day. I also visited an okonomiyaki restaurant, a ramen hut and a curry house among other places. I have got to say that I cannot complain. I just wish Japan was bigger on cakes as when it comes to dessert, nearly everything is always swimming in cream.

Go to a Karaoke bar

Once again, during my first week, I had to check this off. Myself and a couple others found a Karaoke bar and spent roughly the first twenty minutes trying to figure out how navigate songs utilising a primarily Japanese system. I remember it being quite expensive and wonder if the clerk might have ripped us off because subsequent visits to other karaoke bars suggested cheaper options with a greater variety of songs and all-you-can-drink options. Since living in Japan though, I’ve been to a karaoke bar quite a few times.  The best time seems to be going during the daytime in the middle of the week. (Becoming a member warrants even more discounts). These days I sing quite badly (and cry to myself as to where all that childhood talent went) but I always have a good time belting out old and new classics.

Ride the Shinkansen

Everyone who is anyone talks about the bullet train and how awesome it is. And it is really. You can cover about half of Honshu (the main Japanese island) in about four hours, most of which you can spend asleep. And similar to being on an aircraft, there’s usually someone wondering through serving food and beverages (you have to pay for it though). I’ve ridden the Shinkansen twice now and I’ve got to say that while it’s nice watching stuff whizz by at ridiculous miles per hour, it really was like riding in a plane which isn’t something I’m particularly fond of. Oh, don’t get me wrong – I’m not afraid of heights – but I do get the ridiculously annoying air pressure build up in my ears. And unless I’m wearing some protective ear-gear, it hurts like a mofo. So the next time I ride the Shinkansen, I will be prepared.

Paint the town red

After a gruelling two weeks of training, I was ready to hit the club scene. And while I haven’t been to many clubs in Japan – I always have a good time. The first club I went to included that famous all-you-can-drink option in the entrance fee. My colleagues were ecstatic but all I wanted to do was dance. The music was good for my tastes as I knew most of the songs. Nobody bothered me or tried to invite themselves into my personal space against my will which was doubly lovely. But what did end up irritating me in the morning was the extreme smokiness of the environment. Patrons can smoke indoors and so come morning, my throat was raw and I was miserable. Still had a good time however and I will be going back.

Befriend a local

Japan Guide has a Classifieds section

The internet has been a great way to get connected and I’ve certainly used it to my advantage when looking for friends. Despite Hiroshima being considered relatively small-scale in comparison to bigger cities like Osaka and Tokyo, I’ve managed to establish a few connections with people – both foreigner and Japanese alike. In Hiroshima, it also seems that the foreigner circle is very well connected. If you haven’t met someone yet, it’s likely that you’ve got a friend of two in common and that you’ll cross paths soon enough. Even now I’m still meeting people, whether it be online or in person and with the emergence of the LINE app, I can choose to keep in contact with someone without the awkwardness of exchanging telephone numbers which I consider to be a bit more personal.

Locate a Host Club

While I haven’t been able to procure photographic evidence of this endeavour, I am pretty sure I’ve come across my fair share of Host and Hostess clubs. In actuality, in Hiroshima, the most happening strip of bars, clubs and restaurants is a place called Nagarekawa. I’ve only been along there a few times but I actually went along there in the daytime and saw a couple of closed establishments that make me reckon they’re either Host clubs or Strip clubs. Will I be going in? Probably not. Host clubs require you to empty your pockets and I rather prefer the cheaper option.

Visit a Temple or Shrine

Inside the Gokoku Shrine at Hiroshima Castle

The very first shrine I went to was Aichi Shrine in Okayama. I didn’t actually do anything besides wash my hands at the purification trough (every time I go, I find myself having to relearn the method) and taking a few pictures. It was nice to behold however and as it was midweek, it was very peaceful. When I went to Miyajima however, I went to the Itsukushima Shrine there and tried my hand at a fortune. In Japan, fortunes come in five levels. My fortune at the time was second from the bottom and I was feeling pretty crappy at the time so I thought it was fitting really. Over time, my fortunes have started to get better however and I’ve had the opportunity to watch kannushi (or Shinto Priests) perform rituals. I tend to come across more Shinto shrines than Buddhist ones however.

Learn some Japanese

My Japanese is still quite horrendous. There are a lot of rules within the language that don’t exist in English but I can get around a bit more than I could when I first arrived. In actual fact, I’ve sort of made it a goal of mine to be able to hold a conversation in Japanese by the end of the year. In order to facilitate this, I bought a new book and joined a class which is hosted at one of the international centres here in Hiroshima. I also take part in a one on one class with a volunteer teacher and do a weekly language exchange with a guy in Shiga. I’ve still got a long way to go. I can’t understand informal Japanese very well and Kanji is just out of the question right now but I’m getting there…steadily.

Visit an Onsen

The Hyotan Onsen in Beppu

This actually happened later than I expected it to but there aren’t many onsen in Hiroshima to begin with so what did I do in the end? I decided to take a trip to Japan’s onsen capital – Beppu, in Oita situated on Kyushu island. It was an interesting experience considering that the onsen had a bit of a waterfall inside of it. There were 8 baths in total, one of which was outside and I found the contrast between the heated water and the open air quite relaxing. I also found that I didn't really feel awkward about walking around in my birthday suit despite one woman burning a hole in my back with her stare (maybe it was my tattoo...?). I left feeling relatively relaxed or what I like to call "a state of zen" which may have in effect been both a good and bad thing because I forgot to put my shoes back on at the genkan (entryway) and instead did so at my lockers. Doh!

~

So there you have it; my - for the most part - almost completed bucket list. And don't worry, both Tokyo and the theme park's coming. It's my intention to go to Tokyo some time in September. And I'm hoping to head back down to Kyushu for my rollercoaster fix in a couple of months because it has been far too long since my last adrenaline rush. I feel quite proud that I've managed to check these off though. I'm also fortunate to have been to so many places despite my short time here. So you can bet your bottom yen that I'll be setting up another to-do-list soon enough. Watch this space?

Japan ~ The Land of… (Part II)

So, as I was saying during my last entry, considering that Japan has so much that is different to what I’m accustomed to, I figured that this needed a second article. Because the longer I live here, the more things I discover and I simply can’t help but write about it.

Vending Machines

Decisions, decisions...

I’m sure this is no secret but Japan is full of vending machines. It is physically impossible to walk down a residential or communal street corner and not come across some manner of watering hole where for a couple hundred yen, you can grab yourself a quick pick me up on your way to work or what have you. I’m not sure why they’re so prevalent but I reckon it must come in handy during those hot humid summers when you’re gasping for a drink but don’t quite want to make the trek all the way to your local convenience store. Heck, there’s actually a machine downstairs not one minute from my front door so if you ever fancy something quick to wet your whistle, fret not – Japan has got you covered.

Mobile Phones

I kid you not; this is exactly what it looks like coming home from work

It’s contagious. Heck, I even noticed it before leaving the UK, but in Japan, the mobile phone is a necessity. And even I’m walking down the street at night with my nose in my phone. The iPhone and the Android are the way forward and even though we know that some big wig will come up with the next popularity boom sooner or later, people simply can’t help themselves. And with so many handy little applications, there’s something for everyone. I constantly see people using the internet, playing games, watching movies or listening to music. The mobile phone is no longer a source of communication for people; it’s a mini entertainment system in your hand. It’s also, a language translator, a shop and a GPS all in one. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve managed to find my way when I’ve been lost. 4G is the way forward. And I’m already aware that it’s hit the west too in full force. So join the epidemic! It’s catching.

Convenience

There have been many a time that I’ve discovered something about Japan that does exist in the UK that has made me exhale in pure ecstasy. And I know what you’re thinking so please take your head out of the gutter because I’m talking about how systematically clever things seem to be here; things that often make me think – why don’t we have those in the UK. My first discovery was how Japanese train carriages are almost always warm in the winter. I can’t tell you how pleasant it is to step out of the blistering cold and to park myself in a booth where there’s a heater underneath ready to warm up my tush. (I look forward to the summer when the trains will then sport air con; no more sweltering hot underground trains for me) Not to mention that more often than not, these seats are moveable meaning that you can angle the seat back into the designated direction of travel as and how you please. Trains aside though, even western-style public toilets are convenient from its seat warming properties to their in-cubicle sanitisers meaning that you can sanitise the seat before you do your business; no need for squatting here (unless you’re find yourself face to face with a Japanese style toilet but that’s another story).

Multi-Storey Entertainment

Where I’m from, a large department store like Debenhams or a Shopping Centre like Westfields with have multiple floors containing different shops, stalls and what have you trying to sell their wares on to the consuming public. What I’ve noticed about being in Japan however is that while this notion exists, shopping aside, multiple businesses will use the same address to sell slightly different services. All they have to do is pick a floor. For example, the ground floor (or the first floor as it’s known here) could contain a restaurant of some kind, but subsequent floors right the way up to sixth or seventh will contain karaoke bars, night clubs, eikaiwa and all manner of industry depending on where you look. And certainly, this does exist in the UK. I’ve worked in a training office where directly above me was a law firm, but in Japan, it seems that even their night life adopts this manner and I reckon it’s because everything here is much smaller and compact. Therefore, if you wanted, you could check out the jewellery shop on the ground floor and then after hours head up to that karaoke place on the third floor, have a meal on a fifth floor, grab some drinks at the pub on the fourth and then head down to the basement to dance the night away at a basement rave. Who says you need to travel from A to B to have a good time.

Courtesy

Remember that thing that I mentioned about politeness in an earlier article? Well it doesn’t just extend to verbal pleasantries but also to manner as well. For example, it’s sort of an unwritten rule here to queue and not just at convenience stores of ticket booths either. People will queue for public transport be it train, bus or taxi; it’s just the done thing here. People will also form a sort of queue at times when waiting to cross the road. I’ve seen people hang back a little bit when someone is in front of them whereas it’s always been my natural instinct to simply file into the gap that’s available at the crossing. What’s more (and it’s something that I discovered only today in fact) is that Japanese pavements come with these little textured portions that for the longest while I’d only considered were merely decoration (and also, an inconvenience when trying to walk in heels). Turns out, these portions of pavement are for blind people so they can navigate their way along the pavement. I thought this was quite brilliant actually until I discovered that it's actually old news and exists all over the world. What I can say however is that this "tactile paving" at least originates from Japan and complements this idea of consideration quite nicely.

~

As for me, I’m hoping they’ll be a Part III to this expedition as it seems that every day I’m discovering something new about this country – including the string of okonomiyaki restaurants that are within walking distance from my apartment.

How did I manage to miss those?

Japanese Work Culture ~ Due Diligence

I’m actually in the process of writing up a second part to a prior entry I made and I was going to include this topic but figured that this was something that could quite comfortably stand alone. For you see, it’s not really news that Asians work bloody hard. In England, the highest number of Asians are Pakistani, Bangladeshi and Indian and they’ve done well for themselves. But the Japanese working culture is indeed what I would describe as a culture shock. And while it doesn’t directly affect me – as more often than not, I still see a two-day weekend and I don’t work nearly as many hours as the rest of the country – I’ve come to find that the way in which Japanese people regard work is quite interesting.

Look at that dedication.

Now I was previously aware from other sources that the Japanese – especially the men – are extremely conscientious. They bring home bacon like no tomorrow to support their families and anyone who does this is to be commended really. But I didn’t realise the exact extent of what it means to be a worker here. Because as a worker, you’re not just another employee; you’re an important piece – a cog even – operating inside a well oiled machine. And the harder you work, the better it is not only for your superiors but for your fellow colleagues as well. Everyone needs to work together. There is no “I” in “team” and all that jazz. And fundamentally, there are a lot of rules that must be followed, making it a far cry shy of where I’m from.

In the UK, the working week is fairly fixed. Most people work Monday to Friday, 9am until 5pm. There are folk that work early mornings however and some that do nights, but the “9 ‘til 5” momentum still stands and when Friday comes, people throw off the shackles and let loose. My general working week is Tuesday to Saturday (with a few changes here and there every couple of weeks) but what I came to find when leaving my house particularly early one Saturday morning was that there were lots of people out and about. This surprised me for 7.30 in the morning because on a Saturday in London, there’s barely a body about unless their staggering home after that Friday night. The train was positively rammed and it started to make me realise that whatever routine I may have been used to back home, does not exist here.

People work around the clock. Just because it says you’re starting time is 8am, it doesn’t mean you arrive at 8am. You have to arrive earlier – sometimes thirty minutes earlier or more. Arriving on time is frowned upon here and arriving late is just damn right bad manners. Persistent offences without a valid reason could even get you fired. In a similar fashion, leaving on time is just as bad. People might finish at 6pm but as a method of demonstrating commitment to one’s job, people will often leave later. (I sometimes wonder if people race in order not to be the first to leave). As a result, I could be coming home at midnight and I’ll see a train full of people heading in the opposite direction as they make the commute home. What’s more, I never see my neighbours but I can hear them and I’m aware that they leave for work earlier than I do and on occasion will return home later than I do.

I do not envy them.

I’ve also, noticed that it’s rare for people to have two consecutive days off. A friend of mine will work a five day week with a day off and then will work a four, five or even six day week (depending on whether it’s crunch time) before the next day off. This makes scheduling days or even evenings out quite difficult but I think the offices here try to make up for this by incorporating company events e.g. the infamous bounenkai (end of year party) and shinenkai (start of year party).

This “working culture” however doesn’t just extend to adults however, but to children as well. It isn’t uncommon for me to see kids out and about in school uniform on a Saturday as they make the trek to their cram schools or extra curricula activities. And they come out in their droves. I had even considered that some schools spilled over onto Saturdays at one point but I suppose that this time of year being exam period means that even the kids are working hard, whether trying to pass that high school entry exam or making their families proud.

Might not be a mansion but at least he made it.

Even the homeless are at it. In the UK, we attach a stigma to homeless people. They smell, they smoke, they drink and as such, it’s very difficult for a lot of them to find work. After all, who wants to be served by scruffy looking vagabond in the supermarket? But in Japan, not having a home doesn’t necessarily mean one doesn’t have a job. They might not have a most appealing of jobs but even the homeless have found alternative ways of survival. Some have even made little communities and ramshackle abodes for themselves as a means of shelter. In the UK, most folk sleep on the streets and if they try to make something for themselves, the police will move them on. In Japan, I think most people consider the homeless untouchable – literally – so as long as they’re not harming anyone, they’re left to their devices.

Otsukaresama desu! This is something that is frequently used in the workplace to acknowledge fellow workers and their hard work. I frequently use it during meetings or whenever I make a phone call to head office. I suspect this has become a necessity or has always been a necessity because following hard work comes the fatigue and everyone likes to be thanked in some way or other for putting in all those hours. Because when one day ends, the next begins. And at the end of that day, it I often see various people flaked out or fast asleep on the train. (Believe me, I’ve been there too).

So dust yourself off, roll your head back and close your eyes, young man. You’ve seriously earned yourself that kip.

The Japan Files ~ Sexism and the Salaryman

I got a lot of questions when I told people I was headed to Japan, but the question I received the most (after “when are you going?”) was “why?”. Why Japan? Why don’t you teach in London? What’s Japan got that London doesn’t? And like many others who have crossed the divide, we all have our reasons. We might have had some interest in Japan for quite some time. We might desire to kickstart a new career or enhance job prospects for an old one. Or we might not have had any interest in Japan at all and were simply curious about living somewhere outside of our own norms. On one occasion however, somebody asked me a variation of the above. They asked me why I would want to go to a country that is essentially sexist.

Now I’m aware that in the East, the rules are a little different concerning men and women. There are a lot of what I would consider “old-fashioned” values that are very tried and true here. And while I can’t speak for other countries, I can about Japan, both based on having noticed personally as well as based what I’ve read.

You see, the salaryman – the typical Japanese businessman – is a huge feature here, probably in a similar way to all those businessmen back home. But while being an office jockey in the UK mightn’t mean you’re held in high regard, the salaryman is seen as some sort of ultimate gateway to a comfortable lifestyle. But with this gateway comes long hours, hard work and a lot more than just company procedure because let me tell you this - Japanese people work really hard. So I can understand the necessity to blow off some steam. But as a woman from the west, I can’t help but wonder about certain establishments and what have you that sort of pander to the men here.

Let’s take the izakaya for example. I see this as fundamentally a bar designed for people to get together and drink the night away. Izakayas are popular with Japanese and foreigner alike however, usually because they offer an all-you-can-drink option (nomihodai) for a set price and for a set amount of hours. On occasion, they’ll offer food – more often than not with an all-you-can-eat option (tabehodai). Heck, sometimes they’ll even combine them. These usually manifest as a type of bonding facility as with Japanese workplaces, team-building and togetherness is paramount for the function of almost every company. And what better way really for a group of guys to bond than wile eating, drinking, smoking and getting royally merry.

Next we have the Host Club. Now Host Clubs which target females are in existence as well but I’m pretty sure this wasn’t always the case. I believe I’ve already mentioned the basis for these institutions. You go in, order a drink, select a “host” and spend your evening chatting and/or flirting the night away in their company. And really, what man wouldn’t want to spend his evening with an attractive woman? Men are visual creatures after all and as creatures, they simply can’t help but ogle potential as it skirts by. Maybe that’s why Host Clubs are such big business.

I found this hotel in Nagoya

This brings me to my next point. The Love Hotel. I’ve already heard it said that these were primarily designed for businessmen to sleep with their secretaries while their wives sit at home under the impression that they’re hard at work.  It’s a bold statement, I know and while I’m sure that not everything that goes in there is entirely innocent, I also understand that it’s impossible to generalise. After all, for some, it probably genuinely is merely a basis to spend time with a significant other. At the same time, however, coming from the west, I can’t help but wonder what an ordinary hotel has that a Love Hotel doesn’t – excluding the boutique style rooms. Why the apparent need for secrecy if one’s relationship is legitimate?

Next up are porn mags and other adult reading material. Now these are apparent in the West as well but in the UK are usually kept on the top shelves so as to keep out of reach of minors. What’s more, you aren’t allowed to stand and read them in the shop either. A newsagent is not a library. But in Japan, not only are porn magazines within arms-reach of anyone, but it isn’t uncommon for your typical salaryman to stand there and have a flick through while he makes up his mind as to whether it’s worth buying or not. And apparently, people read these openly on the trains and other methods of public transport as if it’s standard reading material. So our salaryman gets his jollies and no one bats an eyelid.

Chikan or perverts who grope women (usually on trains) are known very well in this country as well. There are often warnings about them all over the place and I believe it still occurs to this day. In the West, if a man gropes a woman on a train I believe she would become rather vocal about it; that or someone else having seen the attack would step in out of pure disgust. In Japan, this isn’t generally the case. It’s quite common here to turn a blind eye and people aren’t generally vocal about such things. But even though Japan has taken steps to try to warn women about them – they’ve even created women-only train carriages to help them feel safe – I don’t think I’ve ever heard of a chikan getting arrested…

Lastly, I’ll talk about the workforce. While the new millennium has seen an increase in working women, it isn’t uncommon for women to ditch the trade here after marriage. There has been an influx of career women however (the equivalent to the salaryman) but in contrast to those women who drop off the work ladder to start families, these career woman usually end up sacrificing married life for the job due to the high demand that work places on people in Japan. And while I’m sure there are some women that manage to maintain working while at home, I wonder if it’s as common as it is in the West.

So is Japan sexist?

Probably.

But then is Japan really any different from anywhere else. In the West, men also, pay for the company of women – albeit for a slightly different (often illegal) method of company. Pornography, while often viewed privately, is still prevalent. In the workforce, sociologists talk about the infamous glass ceiling that prevents women from excelling and moving up the career ladder. And who needs an izakaya really when all you need to do is head to your local boozer and drink as much as your wallet will allow you.

So all in all, while I do believe to an extent that Japan does cater moreso for the typical salaryman or man in general, I don’t believe the country is any more sexist than anywhere else.